Better than the Internet.
Big Wave Body Surfing.
Damn. That's some unfortunate ownage.
that would kill me, without doubt. i couldn't hold my breath that long. i've bodysurfed 10-12 ft. waves on the south shore with just fins, but it was so exhausting i got a mean cold a few days later. north shore, that's a different story. 30 foot waves come and go in the time of a quick toilet flush. fuck that.btw the slideshow that the pic links to is pretty nifty.. more folks with balls of titanium.
Evolutionarily speaking, I can see how having a certain amount of balls and bravado might be advantageous and lead to procreation. However, there's a flip side to that coin, in that having an appropriate amount of fear is also a crucial life-preserving strategy. As with everything like this, I think there is a nectar zone in the middle of the bell curve. I would tend to argue that people such as this surfer are on one extreme, and are actually non-optimal. I think that I'm probably a little non-optimal on the conservative side.
My history would indicate a lean towards non-optimality on the liberal side, but I still believe that the nanotechnology of the future will help deliver telomerase to vital organ and vasculature cells to keep my DNA replication hot and golden.I just have to get on a sweet health plan first. With the surfers, a lotta those guys know exactly what they're doing. You kind of have to. But the waves come in so fast that even the slightest fuckup or unexpected breeze may result in permanent damage.This is a long comment I realize, but once I compressed a lower vertebrae by being slammed on my ass by a 5 ft. shorebreaker, and now I can't sleep on my left side.
My left side is my favorite sleepin' side.